WINTER: While things around us are cold and barren, within the hive, there is constant activity. Within the cluster, the bees are active, while those on the outside form tightly compacted layers that produces an insulating shell that expands and contracts depending upon the surrounding air temperature. Bees have the ability to generate metabolic heat by shivering their flight muscles (the amplitude is too small to be seen) that holds the internal core temperature at 32 Deg C while maintaining the outside cluster temperature between 6-8 deg C no matter the outside temperature.

Up to this time, very little of the honey reserves have been used, however, around about mid-July the bees raise the temperature of a small area in the middle of the cluster to 35 Deg C which triggers the queen to start laying again. This is the beginning of the new season’s build up, initially providing a supply of replacement bees.

This is before the bees start flying so they use the reserves of stored pollen and honey. However as I write this, the bees are happily flying enjoying the third hottest autumn recorded. If you paid attention to the wintering requirements of the hive, plenty of food, young queen, etc, then everything will be proceeding well.

WINTER WORK: Now is a good time to assembling supers and frames. Commercial beekeepers staple them together using air guns. They use jigs to hold the assembled frames in place so multiples can be stapled at one time. Time and efficiency count when you have thousands to assemble and wire.

A hobbyist with only a few items to put together doesn’t need all that expensive equipment. They can take their time and pay attention to detail. After the super sides and ends have been preserved and dried, they are ready to assemble.

But first select the side of the timber that is going to be on the outside of the super. Large flat pieces of timber tend to warp slightly and it’s important that they warp inwards, otherwise in a year or two, it will be hard to get the hive roof on certain supers. The pith of the timber (centre of the tree) should be to the inside. If you are not sure, look down the grain from the end to see which way it is slightly warped. Place the concave surface to the inside. Mark the sides so you do not forget.

Some seal the ends with an undercoat and glue once the undercoat is dry (use a waterproof glue). Others just glue the ends for strength and to seal the timber. Place an end board flat on a low stool or bench and fit in the sides and the other end piece. These can be held square using clamps or just placed against a flat surface to hold it square, then nail or screw together using 60 X 3.15-mm galvanised flat head nails (minimum length) or zinc coated pozi-drive wood screws. Once a few nails or screws are in place, check that the super is square and then continue to put in the rest.

It you are out of practice using a hammer or are using macrocarpa timber, pre-drill the holes to half the depth. Use at least 5 nails in each corner as the supers are very heavy when full of honey and have to stand up to a fair hiding during their twenty-year life.

Before painting the supers, I like to slightly round the bottom corner edges with a rasp or sander. This makes it a little easier to push in the hive tool when splitting them apart. You can also fire brand your apiary registration number or your initials on the outside of all supers. (This makes it a little easier to trace them in the unlikely event of theft). Undercoat and top coat the outsides and edges of the supers and they are ready for use. You can use either oil or water based paint. I tend to use what ever is closest to hand.

If you live in an area with a relatively damp climate or have a lot of condensation in the hives, the frame lugs tend to rot out fairly quickly, (3-5 years). You can prevent this by placing the ends of the top bars in a 1-cm deep solution of wood preservative for 30 minutes, (before they are assembled). Frames are now ready to wire but should not be waxed until the weather warms up.

For about the same price as a fully made up wooden frame (when you count the labour & materials), you can now buy plastic frames. These seem to work quite well but purchase them pre-waxed, as the bees seem to draw these out more evenly. There are some advantages and disadvantages to using plastic frames:

They don’t get stuck up with propolis. A ¾ super full of honey holds 2-3 kg more than wooden frames. They are strong and won’t break, don’t rot, but sometimes the wax separates from the plastic midrib if the uncapping knife / machine if not hot enough. They have their place, however reading an old article, they could cause problem for those who winter in singles in icy conditions. The frames don’t have holes to allow the bees to pass from one frame to another so could prevent the cluster moving to a honey frame. Steve Taber suggested a hole be drilled in the frame to allow internal access, as the bees won’t go around the outside in cold weather.

PURCHASING HIVES: About this time a lot of people seem to get the beekeeping bug and want a hive of bees. Hives sell anywhere from $60 to $120 depending upon condition, stores and the amount of equipment sold with it, (2 or 4 honey supers, queen excluders, etc).

Winter is not the best time to purchase beehives. They can’t be inspected for disease and it’s difficult to assess the condition of the woodware and frames, etc. The best time to purchase a hive is in October when they can be opened easily and checked for AFB. If this is not possible, get a written agreement that you will pay half now and the rest after the October disease inspection. Any diseased hives found in the spring should be replaced.

I recommended you take an experienced beekeeper with you when assessing hives as it takes an experienced eye to point out the pitfalls. Check the supers for rot with a small screwdriver, end bars broken or rotted away, dark frames and those full of drone brood, distorted, etc., will all require replacing in a short time. All devalue the asset.

Hives that have been left unattended for a few years or abandoned may be only worth the value of the bees and the honey reserves. Come spring and you may have to replace everything. A good prospect if you are starting up in business as all the replacement gear will be tax deductible however not much fun if you are a new inexperienced beekeeper.

If you are purchasing hives or beekeeping gear make sure the seller has the correct paper work. Contact you nearest AgriQuality Apiary Advisory Officer if you are not sure. The minimum requirement is a registration form that you fill in and the seller returns to AgriQuality NZ. This information is used for surveillance purposes and in the event of a disease outbreak.

MOVING HIVES: When planning to move hives, consider what is required and plan for something to go wrong. It will also take twice as long as you think.

Carry enough fuel for the return journey. Petrol stations don’t like flying bees as these could disrupt the station for hours especially at night when bees will fly to the lights.

Carry gauze, foam plastic strips or the like to block the entrances and scrim or shelterbelt cloth to cover the load if you are moving during the day. (In cold weather the bees can be closed up for two hours). If the hives are full of bees, add another super a few days before hand so the bees have time to stick it down).

Carry tools for any breakdowns, tow rope, etc. Have a spare hive tool, smoker, rubber gloves, and gear to supply another person should you need a hand.

If a non-beekeeper is going to assist you, carry antihistamine tablets and have them eat vitamin C before hand to reduce the effects of strings.

Strap the hives to prevent them splitting apart. Some use emlock strappings or ratchet tie downs.

Use proper lifting techniques as heavy hives and improper lifting techniques can cause permanent damage to your back.

TIPS: Use heavy metal mesh 0.3 X 0.6 of a meter to put under the wheels if you get stuck in soft pasture. If you don’t have these, fit snow chains to the driving wheels for extra traction.

Carry a bottle of soapy water to wash your hands

There is very little you need to do to the hives at this time of the year but it could pay to check your hives after storms. I tie mine with nylon rope so if they fall or are pushed over by stock, at least the supers stay together and the hive survives.

TRAINING: Last month I gave a list of books to read but some just can’t gleam information out of books. A lot of training is one to one along side another beekeeper or attending field days or through bee clubs. We also have two recognised courses run by the Telford Polytech. One is a one-year, full time, live-on campus course that spits out beekeepers with all the skills to take on, or assist with a commercial operation. The other is a two-year correspondence course you do in your own time, module by module with a number of practical sessions that sets you up for a life time of enjoyable beekeeping.