Meetings are held on second Monday each month (except January), at above venue

PRESENT : Richard Hatfield (Pres.), Mary-Ann Lindsay (Treas.), John Burnet (Sec.) and 31 members and visitors as listed in the attendance book.

APOLOGIES : Nancy Fithian, Richard Dormer, Wayne Wild, Marie Christofel, Fred and Robert Thomson.

NEW MEMBERS & VISITORS : Bob McGahan (Seatoun), John Wallace (Melrose).

MINUTES OF PREVIOUS MEETING : Minutes of meeting held 10 May were read and confirmed (with two additions to apologies received from absent members).

MATTERS ARISING : Mead Competition in August - glass container size required (750 ml) further discussed and clarified. Some members had bottled their mead in smaller 375 ml bottles.

CORRESPONDENCE : Taranaki B/K club newsletter received (to be held in club library).

• NBA North Island Branch election - voting paper received with biographical notes from the three candidates. After a brief discussion of the three candidates’ background, attributes and abilities, club members voted in favour of Terry Gavin and Gerrit Hyink.
• NBA Conference - remits and the reasoning behind their submission were discussed by members : genetically modified foods, PMS and exotic diseases, wasp control, unpaid levies, NBA cost cutting, review of the Marketing Committee, change to fee/levy structure, dug control (Fumadyl- B), NBA structure.

GENERAL BUSINESS : DECA - completion of Agreement Form required by every beekeeper before 1 June. Beekeepers receiving a DECA will be required to sit and pass a competency examination in AFB recognition and destruction to be held in Oct (once only cost $25). To assist beekeepers in passing this exam each beekeeper receiving an approved DECA will also receive a detailed manual on AFB from AgriQuality and the Club will also host a training session prior to the exam probably in Sept.

Paul Bolger has been appointed as the new Apicultural Advisory Officer at AgriQuality, Palmerston North (James Driscoll currently inspecting hives in Solomon Islands).

Alan Gibb advised he was giving up beekeeping and his hives and equipment was for sale.

Ivan Pederson demonstrated hive feeding by pouring 1kg sugar syrup directly into each frame.

Meeting closed about 9pm with supper.

Notice was given that Messrs. Gavin and Hyink were elected to the executive of the NBA in the recent postal ballot. The Wellington Beekeepers Association extends congratulations to them on their success.

For a full range of Ecroyds Beekeeping Supplies

Phone 0800-5BEEHIVE (0800-523344) or 06-324 8224

We will trade Honey, Beeswax or Pollen for Gear

Contact Marjorie or Kevin Kibby
for further details or to place an order

Membership subscriptions for the 1999/2000 year are now due. The annual subscription will remain at $20 unless altered by a resolution passed at the AGM next month. Please complete the following form and send with your subscription payment to the Treasurer,

Mary Ann Lindsay, 26 Cunliffe Street, Johnsonville (ph 478 3367)

Please accept my $20 subscription for the 1999/2000 year, due July 98.

Received From:

Name:

Address:

Phone: Enclosed: $20 Cheque / Cash

Date: _____________________        Receipt No: _________________

WINTER: While things around us are cold and barren, within the hive, there is constant activity. Within the cluster, the bees are active, while those on the outside form tightly compacted layers that produces an insulating shell that expands and contracts depending upon the surrounding air temperature. Bees have the ability to generate metabolic heat by shivering their flight muscles (the amplitude is too small to be seen) that holds the internal core temperature at 32 Deg C while maintaining the outside cluster temperature between 6-8 deg C no matter the outside temperature.

Up to this time, very little of the honey reserves have been used, however, around about mid-July the bees raise the temperature of a small area in the middle of the cluster to 35 Deg C which triggers the queen to start laying again. This is the beginning of the new season’s build up, initially providing a supply of replacement bees.

This is before the bees start flying so they use the reserves of stored pollen and honey. However as I write this, the bees are happily flying enjoying the third hottest autumn recorded. If you paid attention to the wintering requirements of the hive, plenty of food, young queen, etc, then everything will be proceeding well.

WINTER WORK: Now is a good time to assembling supers and frames. Commercial beekeepers staple them together using air guns. They use jigs to hold the assembled frames in place so multiples can be stapled at one time. Time and efficiency count when you have thousands to assemble and wire.

A hobbyist with only a few items to put together doesn’t need all that expensive equipment. They can take their time and pay attention to detail. After the super sides and ends have been preserved and dried, they are ready to assemble.

But first select the side of the timber that is going to be on the outside of the super. Large flat pieces of timber tend to warp slightly and it’s important that they warp inwards, otherwise in a year or two, it will be hard to get the hive roof on certain supers. The pith of the timber (centre of the tree) should be to the inside. If you are not sure, look down the grain from the end to see which way it is slightly warped. Place the concave surface to the inside. Mark the sides so you do not forget.

Some seal the ends with an undercoat and glue once the undercoat is dry (use a waterproof glue). Others just glue the ends for strength and to seal the timber. Place an end board flat on a low stool or bench and fit in the sides and the other end piece. These can be held square using clamps or just placed against a flat surface to hold it square, then nail or screw together using 60 X 3.15-mm galvanised flat head nails (minimum length) or zinc coated pozi-drive wood screws. Once a few nails or screws are in place, check that the super is square and then continue to put in the rest.

It you are out of practice using a hammer or are using macrocarpa timber, pre-drill the holes to half the depth. Use at least 5 nails in each corner as the supers are very heavy when full of honey and have to stand up to a fair hiding during their twenty-year life.

Before painting the supers, I like to slightly round the bottom corner edges with a rasp or sander. This makes it a little easier to push in the hive tool when splitting them apart. You can also fire brand your apiary registration number or your initials on the outside of all supers. (This makes it a little easier to trace them in the unlikely event of theft). Undercoat and top coat the outsides and edges of the supers and they are ready for use. You can use either oil or water based paint. I tend to use what ever is closest to hand.

If you live in an area with a relatively damp climate or have a lot of condensation in the hives, the frame lugs tend to rot out fairly quickly, (3-5 years). You can prevent this by placing the ends of the top bars in a 1-cm deep solution of wood preservative for 30 minutes, (before they are assembled). Frames are now ready to wire but should not be waxed until the weather warms up.

For about the same price as a fully made up wooden frame (when you count the labour & materials), you can now buy plastic frames. These seem to work quite well but purchase them pre-waxed, as the bees seem to draw these out more evenly. There are some advantages and disadvantages to using plastic frames:

They don’t get stuck up with propolis. A ¾ super full of honey holds 2-3 kg more than wooden frames. They are strong and won’t break, don’t rot, but sometimes the wax separates from the plastic midrib if the uncapping knife / machine if not hot enough. They have their place, however reading an old article, they could cause problem for those who winter in singles in icy conditions. The frames don’t have holes to allow the bees to pass from one frame to another so could prevent the cluster moving to a honey frame. Steve Taber suggested a hole be drilled in the frame to allow internal access, as the bees won’t go around the outside in cold weather.

PURCHASING HIVES: About this time a lot of people seem to get the beekeeping bug and want a hive of bees. Hives sell anywhere from $60 to $120 depending upon condition, stores and the amount of equipment sold with it, (2 or 4 honey supers, queen excluders, etc).

Winter is not the best time to purchase beehives. They can’t be inspected for disease and it’s difficult to assess the condition of the woodware and frames, etc. The best time to purchase a hive is in October when they can be opened easily and checked for AFB. If this is not possible, get a written agreement that you will pay half now and the rest after the October disease inspection. Any diseased hives found in the spring should be replaced.

I recommended you take an experienced beekeeper with you when assessing hives as it takes an experienced eye to point out the pitfalls. Check the supers for rot with a small screwdriver, end bars broken or rotted away, dark frames and those full of drone brood, distorted, etc., will all require replacing in a short time. All devalue the asset.

Hives that have been left unattended for a few years or abandoned may be only worth the value of the bees and the honey reserves. Come spring and you may have to replace everything. A good prospect if you are starting up in business as all the replacement gear will be tax deductible however not much fun if you are a new inexperienced beekeeper.

If you are purchasing hives or beekeeping gear make sure the seller has the correct paper work. Contact you nearest AgriQuality Apiary Advisory Officer if you are not sure. The minimum requirement is a registration form that you fill in and the seller returns to AgriQuality NZ. This information is used for surveillance purposes and in the event of a disease outbreak.

MOVING HIVES: When planning to move hives, consider what is required and plan for something to go wrong. It will also take twice as long as you think.

Carry enough fuel for the return journey. Petrol stations don’t like flying bees as these could disrupt the station for hours especially at night when bees will fly to the lights.

Carry gauze, foam plastic strips or the like to block the entrances and scrim or shelterbelt cloth to cover the load if you are moving during the day. (In cold weather the bees can be closed up for two hours). If the hives are full of bees, add another super a few days before hand so the bees have time to stick it down).

Carry tools for any breakdowns, tow rope, etc. Have a spare hive tool, smoker, rubber gloves, and gear to supply another person should you need a hand.

If a non-beekeeper is going to assist you, carry antihistamine tablets and have them eat vitamin C before hand to reduce the effects of strings.

Strap the hives to prevent them splitting apart. Some use emlock strappings or ratchet tie downs.

Use proper lifting techniques as heavy hives and improper lifting techniques can cause permanent damage to your back.

TIPS: Use heavy metal mesh 0.3 X 0.6 of a meter to put under the wheels if you get stuck in soft pasture. If you don’t have these, fit snow chains to the driving wheels for extra traction.

Carry a bottle of soapy water to wash your hands

There is very little you need to do to the hives at this time of the year but it could pay to check your hives after storms. I tie mine with nylon rope so if they fall or are pushed over by stock, at least the supers stay together and the hive survives.

TRAINING: Last month I gave a list of books to read but some just can’t gleam information out of books. A lot of training is one to one along side another beekeeper or attending field days or through bee clubs. We also have two recognised courses run by the Telford Polytech. One is a one-year, full time, live-on campus course that spits out beekeepers with all the skills to take on, or assist with a commercial operation. The other is a two-year correspondence course you do in your own time, module by module with a number of practical sessions that sets you up for a life time of enjoyable beekeeping.

Frank Lindsay

Available at the July and October meetings. Stock up now before the new seasons price rises! Equipment has not had AFB on the site! Contact Alan Gibb, 7 Elizabeth St. Pukerua Bay, Ph (04) 239-9161 or alan.gibb@internet.co.nz

Wax foundation -(never been used - Ha Ha!).
3/4 thin super, Ideal for cut comb, @ $5.50 per 10.
1/2 Thin super cut comb or sections, @ $3.50 per 10.

FD frame parts not made up 27 @ $1.00 each.
3/4 frames, used 30 @ $0.70 each.
1/2 frames, not made up, 9 @ $9.00 per 9.
1/2 frames, used 13 @ $0.50 each.
1/2 section frames, 8 @ $0.70 each.
Section boxes, 140 @ $2.00 per 10.

Bottom boards, treated, painted 2 @ $10.00 each.

Roofs, treated, painted and galv. iron top 3 @ $15.00 each.

FD storeys, treated, painted, 4 @ $10.00 each.

3/4 storeys in excellent condition,
1 with 10 frames with foundation, 1 @ $20.00.
1 with 9 frames with foundation, 1 @ $18.00.
3 with 9 frames with drawn comb, 3 @ $22.00, each.
1 with 9 frames, 5 foundation, 4 drawn comb, 1 @ $20.00.

1/2 storeys — fair condition,
2 treated, painted, 1 ex and 1 fair 1 @ $8.00 and 1 @ $4.00
2 with 10 frames, 2 @ $ 12.00
1 with 7 section frames, 1 @ $12.00.
1 with 5 drawn frames and 4 drawn sections, 1 @ $15.00.

Hive mats, treated, painted,, good 3 @ $5.00.
Bee escape boards, 1 @ $5.00 and 1 @ $3.00.
Gera propalmats, run in, 2 @ $20.00 each.
Smoker, stainless, 3", with guard, 1 @ $35.00.

Solar wax melter, double glazed, polystyrene insulated (works from October to May each year!), adjustable tilt angle to suit over the above months, on wheels to move for best sun, holds 3 FD frames, complete with wax mould and 1 spare polystyrene box, 1 @ $20.00.

Sundry parts — Bases for Splits, Drone trap, top entrances, 3/4 frame feeders, cappings dryers and top feeders.

Dariel Ferguson of 76 Lindler Ave., Raumati South, ph 04-297 9450, would like two hives put in his garden. He is not interested in keeping bees himself.

Don't forget that the Annual General Meeting of the Wellington Beekeepers Association Incorporated will be held on Monday 9^th August at 7:30 pm at the Union Church Terrace Centre in Johnsonville. Items on the agenda will include the usual President’s Report, Presentation of the Accounts by the Treasurer, and the election of an executive committee. Nominations for positions on the executive committee will be called for at the AGM.

If any of you are willing to serve on the committee, but are unsure of what commitment is involved, please contact one of the existing committee members (Richard Hatfield, James Scott, Doug Purdie, John Burnet, Mary-Ann Lindsay, Bill Allan, Andrew Beach).

A further significant item of business to be transacted at the AGM is the adoption of a revised constitution for the association. The existing constitution does not completely reflect the way in which the club now wishes to operate, and so it is appropriate to consider amendments. A proposal setting out the revisions to be sought will, shortly be mailed to members for their consideration.

Members are reminded that their annual subscriptions are now due. Please complete the form on page 3 and send to the Treasurer, Mary-Ann Lindsay. Those members who have not paid by September will cease to receive newsletters.

Don't forget that the annual mead competition will take place in August (not July as suggested in last month’s magazine). Refer to the minutes of the May meeting (page 2) for competition rules. You should have prepared your mead samples by now. Note that entries are to be submitted in clear round bottles (preferably 750ml size).

The committee is looking for interesting and relevant speakers for meetings this year. It is hoped that Andrew Matheson will be available to talk to one meeting. If you have any suggestions please contact John Burnet on 232 7863 (or secretary@beehive.org.nz).