The old beekeepers will tell you that 'timber today ain't what it used to be'. Some of our older beekeepers still have supers in use that are over 40 years old. I have seen them made out of oak and other imported timber. Most secondhand timber, provided it hasn't been treated, can be turned into beekeeping gear.

Treated timber is out because it contains materials that are toxic to bees. As the bees clean or suck up moisture from tantalized timber they gradually get poisoned and the hive dwindles. It can however be used for runners and any parts of the hive the bees don't have access to it.

So why is it today that our woodware doesn't last as long?

Basically there are two reasons, the type of timber used and the age the trees are being felled. No longer can we get kauri, kahikatea or the other types of native hardwood as these trees have either all been milled or are in the conservation estate. We have been left with mostly pine and macrocarpa. Other types of timber are available but require a lot of investigation or just being at the right place at the right time to find.

Obtaining Timber

Things have changed again during the last few years. World demand for timber and wood pulp has seen more of the older forestry blocks, shelterbelts and wood lots milled. To keep up with constant demand, more forests were planted. Methods have also been found for stabilizing the timber, which allows younger trees to be harvested.

Most of us are therefore stuck with pine however, mature pine although classified as a soft wood can be a very durable timber, its easy to work and holds a nail. Pine trees start to put on heartwood from the age of 24 years and for the timber to be used for bee supers, it should be at least 45 years old.

Hobby beekeepers usually purchase their requirements off the shelf. This timber is clear wood (no knots); beautifully prepared and machined, but being mostly softwood, requires to be protected or else it will rot fairly quickly, 5 -10 years depending upon climate and the use. I prefer the "commercial" type supers as they are cheaper and are quicker to assemble.

Commercial beekeepers on the other hand have a constant demand for timber and can plan well ahead. As they travel around their district, they see many old scraggy shelterbelts and wood lots. To the timber merchants and farmers, they are only good for magpie nests and firewood however, many of these trees have straight, clear butt-wood which is most suitable for beehive use.

Make an arrangement with these farmers and pick out one or two trees that would make suitable woodware. Pick straight, upright trees with very few lateral branches. Trees on a lean of 10-15 degrees or more will produce compression wood that will warp. When the woodlot is being felled arrange to have them milled on site. All that is required after this is to fillet and store the timber for a year under cover to air dry. The following winter it is machined into beehive parts.

Have fun making and putting together your gear. Get together with a number of beekeepers and have a fun day.

Next month: Preserving your woodware.

Frank Lindsay